By Ingrid Schmidt
Later this fall, Elizabeth Saltzman joins Bal Harbour Shops for a 6-month stylist residency. Photo by Helene Sandberg.
Une vie élégante has long been a Saltzman legacy. Stylist and fashion editor Elizabeth Saltzman grew up in Manhattan, where her father, Renny B. Saltzman, was a prominent interior designer and her mother, Ellin, worked as fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman. “My dad always said, When you go out, you represent me,” says the peripatetic Saltzman, who had just landed home after five nonstop months of travel. “If I was a mess, that showed that he was a mess, too.” That sense of presentation, and an innate sense of style—“I used to love to flit around wearing my favorite fringed poncho as a skirt”—provided fertile ground for the career that followed.
Her first big job, in 1984, was working as a stock girl at Giorgio Armani, which had just opened in New York. Soon, Saltzman’s innately sharp eye landed her high-profile editorial roles, such as senior fashion editor at Vogue and then as longtime fashion director at Vanity Fair, where she remains a contributing editor. In 2000, she jumped the pond to London, home base for her international styling business and where she’s also a contributing editor at British Vogue. She does come back to the States often, especially to spend summers at the East Hampton home built by Richard Meier for her father nearly 60 years ago. Saltzman’s storied career also includes consulting with luxury brands and fashioning red-carpet looks for the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow, Eiza González, Elizabeth Debicki, and Julia Garner. This fall, she takes on a new role: a guest residency at Bal Harbour Shops’ personal shopping and styling program.
What excites you most about your guest residency at Bal Harbour Shops?
That by giving them a bit of my knowledge, our clients can shop with confidence and feel great. We [personal shoppers] are all therapists of some sort; you have no idea what someone is going through—maybe they’re dealing with an unwell parent, or have just lost 100 pounds or gained 50. With a little retail intervention, we can have a really good time and plan for the future.
If you had to distill your approach to styling, what would you say?
In my world, nothing is a wear-something- once look—including a wedding dress. So, I like to first shop the client’s closet and then add on. Sometimes it’s about need, sometimes it’s about want, but the bottom line is it’s really about what’s going to make your life easier. Having more isn’t always better; having quality is better. I often say, This is the fun one, but I want to prove to you that you can wear it six different ways, six different days, for six different years, to pass on to six different children.
What’s on your work radar now?
I like to be quiet about what I do and loud about what other people are doing. I’m interested in the intersection of arts and culture and fashion. For Cruise 27, Dior showed at LACMA and Louis Vuitton showed at the Frick. Chanel recently announced a partnership with the Pompidou. We’re seeing that people are starting to think well beyond film and fashion.
What has been some recent dialogue with clients about summer style?
One of my clients recently said, Oh my God, I want to be like a Sargent painting! I understood the [John Singer Sargent] reference and said, I hear that. Let’s bring Sargent into today and not be literal. Then we can move forward and work with Erdem or Chloé.
Pieces you never leave home without?
Rimowa carry-ons are lighter than most and allow me to pack more. You’ll never catch me with a big fat case! Inside I have two Toteme dresses; one for every day that you can slip a sweater or shirt under—or over, to make it a skirt. Add a blazer and it becomes a suit. Heels for evening. Add jewelry for black tie. The second dress is evening-only or, with flats and big jewelry, goes to a fancy lunch.
Most important are classic pieces I can layer and twist. Always a navy jacket and two white T-shirts. Ralph Lauren’s double-breasted blazers are key, with a white satin crewneck, white jeans, or tuxedo pants. Slip your hair back, throw on earrings, and you are killer in a Helmut Newton outfit. I bring a Chanel bag—there will always only be one style, as far as I’m concerned. My collection started early on. One a year when I could afford it. End of story. I can’t live without my chargers and my Steamery steamer. I pack pilates clothes by Spanx. And I would actually not leave my house without my fragrance, Fracas. It defines me.
How about swimwear and cover-ups?
I only wear Eres swimsuits. For my sons, who are in their 20s, it’s Orlebar Brown or Prada. For cover-ups, I tend to have three huge scarves. One of them is cotton from Saint Laurent that can double as a dress. Another is plain black in a thin cashmere-wool blend that works for warmth and also over a white dress. Throw a shawl over your shoulder and wrap a gold belt around it. Use one as a blanket on the plane.
Other must-have summer accessories?
The thing is to figure out what can take your beach dress to the party. Alexis Bittar jewelry really works. I have a blue lace straight-to- my-ankle beach dress that I’ve worn with my Eres swimsuit underneath it to black-tie events. Find the best sunglasses that really work for your face, and then you don’t need eye makeup. I find Prada flats to be the chicest. But I tend to wear Tevas—everyone asks for the designer and no one believes me. Though there is a Chanel brown-suede thong sandal I’m jonesing for. So I pack Tevas or a thong sandal, comfortable black strappy heels, and a gold wild card if I have room. Wear one pair, pack the other two.
Additional packing tips in your arsenal?
Versatile means white, navy, black, gray— neutral tones—because you need to layer things on to get several wears. Jeans take up a lot of room. Everyone has two favorite pairs, so wear the heavier jeans on the plane. Always pack two extra days’ worth of underwear. Always flat-fold. I don’t like the roll technique. If you are bringing sneakers or boots, use the insides as packing grounds for socks and belts. One or two belts, not five. I always bring a gold Chanel chain belt and a brown leather belt. Everything has its place in my bag; I love using those colored Walker zip bags.
How I would love to be a fly on the wall of your closet.
Here’s what people would never believe: I’ve been doing this for more than 44 years; I have one rail and six drawers of clothing. Clothes are not important; they are just the fun part. Life is short. Wake up every day and get dressed to feel good from the inside out. Respect yourself, respect others, and always be kind.
