The Life Aquatic

By Shannon Adducci

In nature’s role as the ultimate source of inspiration, marine life is perhaps the most prolific domain of them all, its vast depths at once familiar and mysterious. A handful of jewelry maisons dove deep into the theme for recent high jewelry collections: Tiffany & Co.’s Sea of Wonder revives and reimagines pieces from designer Jean Schlumberger’s archival aquatic sketches, while Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection has plenty of sea creatures, including a dolphin cuff. Perhaps the most whimsical take comes from Van Cleef & Arpels, whose Treasure Island collection interprets the 18th century–set novel with diamond pirate ships, emerald palm trees, and elaborately bejeweled shells. For its Tortue de Cocos clip, the house turned to a 1953 turtle pin, etched in gold with an emerald head and tail. The new version has the same gold etching across the shell, but now articulates the sea turtle’s majestic flippers in pavé diamonds and textured gold edges.