Travel

La Dolce Vita

By Mark Ellwood

A person swimming in the pool at the Passalacqua hotel, overlooking a scenic view of Lake Como

If a dreamy Italian lake-front escape is on your summer must list, it doesn’t get much better than Lake Como’s Passalacqua.

Book cover featuring an orange Fiat 500 with a view of Lake Como, titled 'Passalacqua, A Love Letter to Lake Como'

“Passalacqua: A Love Letter to Lake Como” is available at Assouline, Bal Harbour Shops.

Assouline’s recently released “Passalacqua: A Love Letter to Lake Como,” is a celebration of one of the region’s crown jewels—and in our opinion, is the perfect summer sojourn. The family-owned property—the creative vision brought to life by Valentina De Santis, and her parents Paolo and Antonella—is an eighteenth-century estate offering just twenty-four intimate rooms and suites designed for ultimate relaxation and refined luxury. The book was created in close collaboration with the De Santis family, and features exclusive illustrations from Andrea Ferolla, photography from Daria Reina, and reflections from beloved guests such as J.J. Martin, Donna Hay, and Emilia Wickstead.

Here, we revisit our interview with Valentina De Santis and explore her charming property through the pages of this new travel tome.

Valentina De Santis grew up in a hospitality family, most recently running the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, a Belle Epoque beauty in mid-Lake Como that her parents Paolo and Antonella have been overseeing since 1973. Keen to take on a project of her own, in 2018, in a private auction, De Santis commandeered three historic buildings in Moltrasio, about 13 miles south of Tremezzo, to create the new property—including a villa from the 1780s, its onetime stables, and a lakeside cottage.

Passalacqua founder Valentina De Santis sitting on lounge chair in colorful dress

Passalacqua founder Valentina De Santis is a third-generation hotelier.

Passalacqua has become an icon of the region almost overnight. Its signature whimsical details act as a shorthand for the boho luxury De Santis champions, whether the bright orange Fiat 500 Spiaggina house car or the maximalist poolside, festooned with textiles from J.J. Martin’s Milan-based La Double J. Here, she shares the secret of her success, and a few other insider travel tips for navigating her hometown.

What was your first job, and how did it connect to what you do now?
Growing up running along the corridors of the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, I probably knew deep down that I would eventually end up in the family business, but it was important for me to strike out on my own in the world of business first. So, I joined the consulting firm Bain & Company. My four years there were such an education—not just because I got to work with Claudia D’Arpizio, a guru in the fashion and luxury world, but because consulting also taught me how to approach each project with an outsider’s perspective and use outside-the-box thinking to solve problems. For example, while creating Passalacqua, we didn’t follow the usual process of developing a hotel concept, which is around the ideal guest you want as a client. Instead, we decided to create the hotel of our dreams.

“We didn’t follow the usual process of developing a hotel concept around a client. Instead, we decided to create the hotel of our dreams.” —Valentina De Santis

Exterior view of the Passalacqua hotel featuring golden awnings and lush garden landscaping

The original structures on the property date back to the 1780s.

What hotel would you love to operate, and why?
Il Pellicano. First, because of its very special story—in its early days as a private club, stars like Charlie Chaplin and Sophia Loren wouldn’t go anywhere else. But secondly, it means working side-by-side with CEO and Creative Director Marie-Louise Sciò, who is building so beautifully on its legacy. She’s the second generation there and is the face of all the Pellicano hotels—and what a face. She’s cool, clever, and super creative.

A painting of the Passalacqua hotel featuring the pool, with blue and green tones throughout the scene

Artist Andrea Ferolla captures the romantic mood at Passalacqua. © Andrea Ferolla.

What hotelier do you admire?
I really admire Mariella and Attilia Avino, the sisters running Palazzo Avino in Ravello, who put a touch of fashion into their family’s palazzo high above the Amalfi Coast. They transformed their hotel into a pink fairytale, and I like the collaboration they did last year with Valentino for their beach club. Carla Pellini, our former director of sales and marketing, is another mentor who really shaped my career. She not only taught me the ABCs of the hotel business and the travel industry; she also showed me how vital it is to love what you do and the people you do it with. She worked with us for more than 10 years, and she taught me how to have confidence: I learned from her how to make other people see my vision for my beloved Grand Hotel Tremezzo.

A bedroom at the Passalacqua hotel featuring wood furniture, gold details, green wall accents, and a newspaper resting on a bed with white sheets.

With only 24 suites, Passalacqua provides a villa-like experience for its guests.

How does a hotel owner help define their property?
My main role is to make everyone on the team feel part of our big family—and that starts with me and my parents. Cultivating this family culture is my highest goal—for me, it makes all the difference. Our executive chef worked with us for over 35 years, so he saw me growing up and he was part of each milestone of my life: he cooked for all the special occasions, my birthdays, my wedding, and the christenings of my children. Two years ago, we lost one of our concierges, a young and incredible guy, in a motorbike accident. So, we created a soccer tournament in his honor together with his family, and through it collected money to donate to causes that were close to his heart.

A variety of floral arrangements and assorted cakes on display at the Passalacqua hotel

An irresistible cake buffet beckons even the most disciplined of guests.

What should every guest always do whenever they stay at a hotel?
I think every guest should ask for a back-of-house tour. You really understand the essence of a property when you go behind the scenes. As hoteliers, we create this wonderful world out front, but most guests have no idea what it takes to make that happen. The kitchen in particular—the heart of any house—tells you so much about a hotel.

A sunlit interior of the Passalacqua hotel’s window-filled sunroom featuring a green couch, floral rattan chairs, and a dining table set for guests

Slow down in the hotel’s idyllic sun room.

Give us your three favorite secret tips or recommendations for the Italian Lakes.
Definitely make time to experience Lake Como from the water. Whether you splurge on a private cruiser or join the locals on the public battello, there is no better way to make sense of the lake. Second, I recommend connecting with nature: my favorite way to do so is to hike to the Church of San Martino just above Tremezzo, a tiny church clinging to the cliff. The views from here are breathtaking, and you really understand the geography from that vantage point, and how the Bellagio peninsula splits the lake in two. And finally, a complete contrast: I suggest sitting at one of the cafés almost hanging out over the water in Bellagio to understand Lake Como as a tourist destination. You see all the people coming and going on the public boats and really feel the bustling vibe of the place.

All photos © Daria Reina, courtesy of Assouline.


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