Travel

A Luxuriously Discreet Pugliese Retreat

By Mark Ellwood

Collage of Casina Cinquepozzi and Thelma West

Photo Courtesy of Thelma West.

Four years ago, London-based jewelry designer Thelma West and her partner, Stefano Liotta, formerly director of business development for Apple, had all but given up on their quest to find a house in Puglia for their family. They had vacationed there, and it was a favorite of their three daughters, the middle of whom has a rare neurogenetic disorder, Angelman syndrome. “It started as an idea to find a place to give her a future, that could be a home for her and kids like her,” says West, “But year after year of looking, we got inspired by different ideas.” Still, the pair could never find a place that quite felt like that would-be home, until their agent brought them to a rundown mansion just outside Putignano. The impact was near-instant. “It was magic. This stone structure that felt like it had seen great days, but still had so much story to tell.”

Thelma West and Stefano Liotta standing under a cement arch at Casina Cinquepozzi in Puglia

Thelma West and Stefano Liotta at Casina Cinquepozzi.

The pair snapped it up, and rapidly repurposed that glorious near-ruin into the 10-bedroom Casina Cinquepozzi, a fully staffed, exclusive-use property that welcomed its first guests this spring. (The name is a nod to the five ancient wells, or pozzi, on the land.) It has been a true passion project for the Neapolitan-Nigerian couple who have restored and rejuvenated every aspect of the 40-acre estate, from its olive groves to a one-time pigsty, artfully rebooted as a wine cellar.

Interior shot of a bedroom with orange bedding

West and Liotta incorporated antiques from the original property with contemporary furnishings and art.

They wanted to tap local experts for the project, which was headed by Luisa De Toma from Federiciana Restauri and her all-female team, after they spotted her work restoring a chapel in Puglia’s southern reaches. West recalls the 150-year-old bale-making machine that De Toma took to her studio and worked on for nine months until it was pristine before being installed as a sculptural object in one of the rooms. “She shed a tear when she was letting that piece go.” West insisted that they retain the dozens of chairs found in the virtually abandoned house; they’ve been reupholstered in Italian fabrics. “The message we’re trying to send is that this house isn’t just ours, but belongs to Puglia, and should shine a light on the craftsmanship of the place.” Even the old stove found in the kitchen wasn’t junked but rather covered with a glass top in order to be used as a breakfast bar.

A white building with a tree in Puglia

The original stone structure dates to the 18th century.

West and Liotta were hands-on with the project, learning how to regeneratively farm the surrounding land—which was filled with unkempt olive trees and a patch of vines that produced a workaday red wine— nourishing the soil, for example, with lemon and eucalyptus trees, allowing their leaves and fruit to fall and naturally enrich it. They opted to produce a small-batch rosé rather than a red, dubbed Primofiore, with just 4,000 bottles; after a wine critic stumbled on it, and rated the wine highly, West laughs that they had to limit buyers to just six bottles per person. The only exception: a client for whom she’d made an engagement ring who asked to serve it at their wedding reception in the South of France (the couple will produce the estate’s first new red, in addition to that rosé, later this year.)

Thelma West standing in a pool at Casina Cinquepozzi in Puglia

Thelma West dips into the pool at Casina Cinquepozzi. Photo courtesy of Thelma West.

Perhaps West’s proudest innovation, though, was converting the old stables into a full, standalone apartment where the couple plans to establish a residency program for creatives to stay and be inspired by the culture and countryside. They’re in the process of setting up a committee and, later, a foundation to help field enquiries and run the program, which she hopes will allow others to engage with Puglia as she has. “First, they can unwind, then feel inspired, immersing themselves in the land and the town.” They don’t want to limit the scope, though, to conventional artists. “Imagine a Nigerian chef: and throwing some Pugliese ingredients in front of them and saying Hey, make magic.”

Professional Opinion

The magpie-like West is a globetrotting creative who draws eclectic inspiration from the many cultures she knows so intimately.

How do you describe your own style?
Quirky. It’s a combination of a lot of different things. I go for comfort, and I love quality, so it’s not about a lot of items, but well-chosen ones.

Ermanno Scervino silk crepon blue dress


Ermanno Scervino
Silk crepon dress


What’s your summertime style?
I’m drawn to tie-dyed fabrics, because it’s something I’d see in Lagos markets: women folding, twisting, and crumpling fabric in various patterns. Long maxi-style dresses are essential for my Afro-chic look. And I am a huge Zimmermann and Ermanno Scervino fan. The former is my go-to for swimwear, and the latter for dresses. And Aquazzura slides are a must for the summer; you can dress them up or down as you like, and they’re easy to pack.

Zimmermann Rhiannon bikini with a floral pattern


Zimmermann
Rhiannon bikini


Aquazzura divine slides in brown


Aquazzura
Divine slides


Talk to me about your travel routines—and what you like to bring with you.
I arrive at the airport with thrilling precision… just as the clock inches toward the last moments of check in. I love a window seat; the chance to see the world from a different perspective soothes me. A cashmere throw is a pretty nice way to stay snug, and for luggage, I love the Gucci Porter. The almost industrial look of the case is striking, and the leather, in contrast, adds warmth and richness.

Gucci porter cabin plus trolley suitcase with silver hardware


Gucci
Porter cabin plus trolley


Your favorite décor item to make a place feel like home?
I love blankets. It’s a comfort thing again. We seek things that give us that sense of ease.

Brunello Cucinelli cashmere travel throw in grey


Brunello Cucinelli
Cashmere travel throw


What’s your accessories philosophy—what key pieces do you always depend on?
I love a good belt. It can be the ultimate style piece to complete an outfit. I use belts to add either structure or playfulness depending on my mood. And I love sneakers; they’re easy, comfortable, and cool.

Golden Goose stardan LTD sneakers with a blue star in the side


Golden Goose
Stardan LTD sneakers


Ferragamo extendable hug belt with a black band and gold hardware


Ferragamo
Extendable Hug belt


What’s in your Little Black Book for Puglia?
Puglia invites you to explore and rewards the explorer. I love secluded swimming spots more than a traditional beach setting—for example, Cala Verde has this dreamy cove. And we go for sunrise swims early in the morning at Cala dell’Acquaviva; it’s a cove with springs in it, so at first you’re swimming in cold water, and all of a sudden, there’s
a pool of warmth and you can think I’ll stay here for a bit.

What are some of the best dining options in the region?
Goodo Ristorante in Locorotondo is modern and stylish, plus they get extra points for carrying our rosé. In Putignano, there’s a Michelin-starred restaurant, Angelo Sabatelli, that’s just five minutes from the house. Gaonas Officine del Gusto in Martina Franca blows me away each time with its combination of flavors and flair.

How do you relax in your homes?
With a candle lit, I can sit and flick through book after book for hours, getting lost in that world. I shelve books by color but stack them on the table by size. I cannot resist a good coffee table book!

Diptyque Feu de Bois candle in a grey glass container


Diptyque
Feu de Bois candle


Assouline “African Arts: The Impossible Collection” book with a leopard on the cover


Assouline
“African Arts: The Impossible Collection”


Santa Maria Novella Rosa Gardenia eau de cologne in a clear and gold bottle


Santa Maria Novella
Rosa Gardenia eau de cologne



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