By Lauren Caruso
Brunello Cucinelli may have been the accidental architect of the quiet luxury trend, but if the Italian heritage brand’s Spring 2024 collection is any indication, things are about to get a touch louder. The designer ushered in his 70th birthday last September by showing a collection steeped in glitz and glam—albeit subtly, thanks to house codes.
Appropriately, the designer calls this collection “aequilibrium,” a nod not just the inevitable return of the Roaring ‘20s—updated for the twenty-first century with modern, masculine-inspired tailoring, lustrous metallic accents, and a playful sensibility meant to surprise and delight—but also to the balance of timelessness and practicality we’ve come to expect from Cucinelli himself.
A woman’s jute-and-cotton cardigan, typically an introvert’s fare, dazzles thanks to a subtle glint of transparent paillettes, while suiting separates enjoy a similarly unexpected sheen. Meanwhile, for men, a ribbed, shawl-collar cardigan looks deceptively simple until you notice the impeccable cotton malfilé yarn and metallic horn buttons. It’s as though the designer imagined what present-day understated luxury might look like in the age of Gatsby.
Of course, Cucinelli’s signature color palette of neutrals and meticulous artisanal made-in-Solomeo workmanship are on display, both serving as a reminder that he was one of the first to prioritize ethical, quality fabric sourcing and sustainable production. What else could we expect from the label that’s designed to stand the test of time?
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Throughout the collection, Cucinelli employed chiaroscuro, a contrasting visual technique called which translates to “light” and “dark.” Here, the dramatic effect shows up on a stunning linen-and-sequin two-piece shorts suit, complete with an all-over magnolia motif. -
A sparkling, sophisticated addition to any capsule wardrobe, this striped jute, linen, cotton, and silk cardigan is the stuff of dreams for minimalists and maximalists alike. -
A seemingly simple layered mesh linen dress comes alive with the addition of light-reflective paillettes, all hand-embroidered, while the fringe hem lends the summer-ready silhouette a lighthearted feel. -
There’s nothing quiet about a metallic linen gabardine trench coat, but the silver sheen feels especially wearable this season. -
For the man that’s ready to upgrade his everyday look, this ribbed jacquard polo is unbelievably soft to the touch and—dare we say it—notably flattering. -
These linen-gabardine trousers toe the line between casual (thanks to the drawstring) and polished (thanks to the double pleat) with an understated ease. -
It takes a keen eye to catch all the subtle details in this shawl-neck cardigan: Lightweight cotton malfilé yarn lends a distinction to the ribbed knit finish, while the horn buttons offer a more daring take on a typically laid-back silhouette. -
Inspired in part by the nautical essence of the French Riviera, this linen, wool, and double-silk suit jacket boasts a purposefully rustic finish and a distinctly tapered shape that the brand calls the “Solomeo Shoulder.” -
Pair these tapered trousers with their matching suit jacket—or go rogue with a crisp button-down or knit polo for your next Sunday stroll. -
A true classic, this striped Panama-weave shirt is equal parts casual and refined thanks to its camp collar, mother of pearl buttons, and laid-back fit.
