By Ingrid Schmidt
Turn to Taschen’s “Costume Jewelry,” available at Books & Books, for a history lesson in fashion jewelry—and a bit of inspiration.
The Resort collections (F/W, too) were awash with a trove of retro-inspired jewelry that feels especially personalized. Playful new riffs on brooches, pearls, and collar necklaces stand out as the must-have final flourishes. A new Taschen tome, “Costume Jewelry,” showcases nearly 600 statement pieces amassed by Italian art collector Patrizia Sandretto Re Rebaudengo. Here, the book’s author and expert jewelry historian, Carol Woolton, weighs in on the timeless pieces she considers wearable art, and how they circle around again and again.
From the book, Carmen Miranda, circa 1950, wearing one of her signature headdresses and matching collar necklace.
“Patrizia [Sandretto Re Rebaudengo]’s collection has to be one of the finest in the world. There’s nothing a collector likes more than finding the unobtainable or rare piece. It’s the chase, the treasure hunt, combined with the fact that she likes wearing them. You mark your character with your costume jewel. Our book tells the story of the golden age of costume jewelry when, between the World Wars, so many émigrés were leaving Europe for America, and taking the skills they learned working in fine jewelry. Costume jewelry provided an affordable alternative that was just as well made. Vogue got behind the trend early on, noting as early as 1921 that it was collectible and beautiful in its own right as a decorative accessory.
From the book, Coco Chanel, circa 1938, lounging with long strands of her signature pearls.
After the second World War, roles changed; many women were working and able to buy their own jewelry at department stores. Even women who could afford diamonds coveted costume and wore it because it had the pizzazz, the fun, the wit! When Joseff of Hollywood created costume jewelry for stars to wear on screen and off, people wanted a part of that glamour in their own lives. With holiday travel becoming more common, jewelry pieces could speak to destinations: an exotic fish for the Caribbean, a palm frond for Palm Beach, a horse for the Kentucky Derby. Patrizia wears her jewelry thematically to pay homage to a season or a place. It’s quite nice to have new additions—just like you might trim your tree a little differently each year.”
From the book, 1930s Hollywood legend Joan Crawford wearing a Miriam Haskell brooch.
Posh Pin-Ups
“You can cluster brooches or pin them on a hat, a belt, a bag, or even a shoe. On the runway, brands are being very creative with brooches. It’s also a very inclusive trend; we’re seeing more men adopting brooches now—arguably more than women.”
Fresh Pearls
“Pearls are so versatile. You can style yourself to be very classic, almost chaste. But if you mix pearls with something else, you can punk them up quite easily for a much more subversive look.”
Pop that Collar
“The collars are quite elaborate. Something to add to a simple black dress for a new look. It’s party time and you want to have that extra glitz. Here you might emphasize the color of costume: citrine, morganite, amethyst, aquamarine—vibrant stones that pop.”
