Travel

Next Stop, NOLA

By Tanvi Chheda

Photograph of the quaint Chartres Street in New Orleans French quarter at sunset

Chartres Street in New Orleans’s famed French Quarter; Photo courtesy of Brian Powers/Gallery Stock.

Synonymous with Mardi Gras, antebellum mansions, jazz, and stiff drinks, New Orleans, along the Mississippi River, continues to thrive as a rich and singular destination. Strategically chosen by the French due to its access to waterways, the city became part of the United States in 1803 with the monumental Louisiana Purchase. European, African, and Caribbean influences have permeated through the centuries to create a unique cultural mix. It’s here you can sample Creole food and traditions.

It’s here legendary trumpeter and singer Louis Armstrong popularized jazz with his infectious swing style. It’s here Tennessee Williams, inspired by and enamored of the city’s bohemian spirit, penned A Streetcar Named Desire. Diverse, architecturally striking neighborhoods can be found around every corner—from the quaint French Quarter and lush Garden District to the Marigny and Bywater with their shotgun houses in electric hues of turquoise, tangerine, and purple. These days, the past and present unapologetically coexist, with luxury hotels, classic cocktail bars, inventive restaurants, and engaging museums injecting the Crescent City with fresh energy and creativity.

A pool deck at the Four Seasons hotel overlooking the water

The pool at the Four Seasons Hotel; Photo courtesy of Christian Horan/Four Seasons.

Day 1

Morning

Check into the newish Four Seasons Hotel New Orleans, housed within a modernist glass–clad tower along the Mississippi. Its 341 rooms are sprawling and serene, outfitted with shiplap walls, white oak furnishings, and plenty of Carrara marble. Art fans will want to make time for the site-specific contemporary works by local and international artists, including Dawn DeDeaux, George Dunbar, and Ralston Crawford. For a much-needed respite from the humidity, hit the property’s mosaic-tiled rooftop pool, which offers sweeping views of the river. Or visit the spa for a customized Biologique Recherche facial, a cult favorite for promoting cell turnover and boosting skin vitality. Don’t miss the gorgeous lobby-level Chandelier Bar (and its signature Chandelier martini, made with three types of gin) or brunch at Miss River.

What to pack

Hit the ground running with pieces that can easily transition from the French Quarter to Magazine Street.

Afternoon

Head out for a stroll Wander over to the nearby French Quarter. Dating back to 1718 and laid out in a tidy grid of squares, the historic neighborhood is lined with art galleries, boutiques, cafes, and bars galore. Admire the intricate wrought-iron balconies of Creole townhouses along cobblestoned Royal Street. Stop at triple-spired St. Louis Cathedral just beyond Jackson Square (a tribute to Andrew Jackson’s defense of the city against the British during the War of 1812). Browse the wide variety of food and artisan stalls in the five-block-long French Market. And of course, join the inevitable queue at the iconic Café du Monde to linger over a cup of chicory-laced coffee and scrumptious beignets.

Smoked Salmon with orange caviar on top

Dakar’s Nola cassava bite with crab salad and trout roe; photo by Jeremy Tauriac.

Evening

A taste of West Africa Tucked into a cozy cottage along posh Magazine Street, Dakar serves a nightly seven-course menu that marries rising star chef Serigne Mbaye’s Senegalese heritage with Creole food traditions. Think cassava with herbs, onions, and mushrooms; Gulf shrimp with tangy tamarind; aromatic jollof made from Louisiana rice; and thiakry (a West African dessert made with millet) pie with chocolate sorbet. Wash it all down with the house libation, made with aged rum, lime, and orange bitters. It’s no surprise the homey restaurant earned a James Beard award last year for its flavorful and seasonally driven dishes. And talk about community spirit: Dakar’s ceramics—plates, bowls, and pitchers—were crafted by the husband and wife–owned pottery studio next door.

A yellow Victorian house in the Garden District of New Orleans

Slow down to admire the Garden District’s architecture; Photo courtesy of Paul Broussard/neworleans.com.

What to pack

The jazz clubs are calling your name. Lean into the retro vibe with these easy pieces.

Day 2

Morning

History lesson If temps are pleasant, arrange a private architecture tour through Two Chicks Walking Tours and explore the leafy Garden District, where New Orleans’ wealthy built grand Greek Revival, Italianate, and Queen Anne–style mansions during the 1840s and onward. It’s one of the city’s most beautiful and storied areas, with ample cameos in films such as The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, Interview with the Vampire, and 12 Years A Slave. Close by, the stylish Hotel Saint Vincent is an ideal stop for a quick bite in the Paradise Lounge—though, once amidst its artfully appointed decor, you may find yourself looking for a reason to linger.

If you prefer to stay inside for your historical tour, consider the oft-overlooked The Presbytère, once a residence for clergy and now a state museum with two permanent exhibits. The first chronicles the timeline of Mardi Gras, from its medieval roots to the raucous present-day celebration that attracts millions (complete with displays of elaborate floats and bejeweled costumes). A second section tells the story of Hurricane Katrina, its aftermath, and the area’s ongoing recovery efforts.

An exterior shot in the evening at the Jewel of the South bar

Make time for cocktail hour at Jewel of the South; Photo courtesy of Josh Brasted.

Late Afternoon

Refresh yourself Cocktails and New Orleans go hand in hand. Make your way to Jewel of the South, a darling brick cottage with cornflower blue shutters that’s home to one of the city’s finest bars, thanks to mixology legend Chris Hannah. Nosh on caviar or fried okra with white bean and chili crisp as you nurse a Righteous Harlot, made with vodka, dragon fruit cordial, St. Germain, and sparkling wine. Or opt for the classic Sazerac, born in the Crescent City in the 1850s.

Three Jazz musicians playing outside at Preservation Hall in New Orleans

Preservation All Stars performing at live music fixture Preservation Hall; Photo courtesy of Justen Williams/343 Media.

Evening

All that jazz An intimate, no-frills room with fantastic acoustics, beloved Preservation Hall has been a fixture for live music since the 1960s. The story goes that local jazz musicians were invited to rehearse in an art gallery along St. Peter Street in the French Quarter, and soon enough, the improvisational, blues-influenced music took over, and the gallery moved out. The venue was also lauded as a rare inclusive space during the charged segregation era. The nightly music led to the creation of the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, a collective of some 50-plus traditional jazz musicians who rotate in small ensembles and now perform 360 nights of the year. (Note: Be sure to purchase tickets in advance, as shows sell out.)

What to pack

Pair an embellished shirt with jeans, grab a beignet, and stroll the Garden District in style.

Day 3

Morning

Fuel up Head to breakfast at Miss River, adorned with pink quartzite countertops, antiqued mirrors, scalloped floor tiles and velvet banquettes. Billed as celebrated chef Alon Shaya’s love letter to Louisiana, the bright indoor-outdoor restaurant particularly excels at brunch, with a bountiful Bloody Mary bar, buttermilk-fried chicken and biscuits, muffaletta sandwiches, and red beans and rice (most ingredients are proudly sourced from local fishermen, farmers, and purveyors). Live jazz on weekends heightens the jovial ambiance.

A red glass sculpture at the NOMA Sculpture Garden

Artist Larry Bell’s Pacific Red (VI), 2016–2017, at the NOMA Sculpture Garden; Photo courtesy of Zach Smith Photography/neworleans.com.

Afternoon

Art walk Adjacent to the New Orleans Museum of Art, the recently expanded Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden sits on about 11 acres in City Park, dotted with magnolias, pines, and moss-covered live oaks, and surrounded by two lagoons. It’s a stunning backdrop for the 90-plus sculptures that comprise the garden. Among them: a bronze head of Jean d’Aire (a prominent figure in the French city of Calais) by Auguste Rodin; Mother and Child by Fernando Botero; Larry Bell’s translucent glass cube-within-a-cube Pacific Red (VI); and George Rodrigue’s three- sided dog titled We Stand Together. For a scenic ride, take the Canal streetcar line back toward downtown.


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