“I am selling dreams,” said founder of Buccellati, one of the world’s finest handmade jewelry brands. Everything started in 1919 when Mario Buccellati opened a small store in the Scadla di Milano to display sketches and drawings of his jewelry. Known for creating the finest handmade jewels in Milan, Buccellati celebrates its centennial with a capsule collection that pays homage to its history and hallmark ‘rigato’ engraving technique used to create that unique matte surface. We took a closer look with Lucrezia Buccellati, Mario Buccellati’s great-granddaughter and the brand’s first female designer who has brought a fresh look to the brand by spearheading jewelry lines that draw inspiration from famous art works and cater to a younger audience.
With such historic roots in high jewelry, how is the Buccellati brand attracting a new generation of clients?
The historic roots of Buccellati’s iconic style have been passed down through generations of designers. The brand’s unique DNA is recognizable not only in one-of-a-kind pieces, but also in Buccellati’s signature and younger collections.
As a millennial, and representing the fourth generation of Buccellati, I feel I can closely relate with the new generation of young women clients. Women of today are always my target while designing; we are all living in a time where everything runs faster and women are juggling many things at once, and I wanted to create jewelry that would embrace that lifestyle.
As a member of the Buccellati family and having spent a majority of your life in the jewelry world, which piece of the Vintage Collection, honoring the 100th anniversary of the brand, is the most iconic? Furthermore, how does this collection echo 100 years of Buccellati history?
The Vintage Collection includes jewels and silver pieces created by Buccellati over the course of the last 100 years. The items within the collection are true cult objects both for their artisanal qualities they possess and for their deep connection to the culture and time period in which they were produced. In the Vintage Collection you will find Buccellati history from the very beginning with my great grandfather Mario to my grandfather Gianmaria and then to my father Andrea.
The most iconic pieces to me are the Vintage Tiara, which reminds me of a similar one I wore on my wedding day which belonged to my grandfather Gianmaria Buccellati, and the rock crystal necklace which Gabriele D’annunzio gave to the famous Italian theatre actress Eleonora Duse in the 20’s.
Being the first female to design for Buccellati after 4 generations of leadership by men, what excites you most about being at the helm of one of the most distinguished jewelry houses in the world? Of your accomplishments so far as co-designer, what are you most proud of (collections, designs, initiatives, company values, etc.)?
It is an honor to be part of such an historic family business. I’ve been in the jewelry world since birth and when it came down to choosing a path I had a very clear vision that I wanted to design jewelry alongside with my father.
Since joining the company, I’ve really enjoyed designing the Blossoms Collection and the Art Collection, made up of one-of-a-kind pieces inspired by impressionist master painters. Blossoms is the first sterling silver collection targeting a younger customer in a more effortless and wearable way. The Art Collection was designed by my father and I together, and it took almost one year to produce due to the uniqueness of each piece.
If you had to describe the Buccellati brand to a novice jewelry enthusiast, how would you do so? In other words, what is it that makes Buccellati one of the world’s most historic jewelry houses?
Buccellati’s essence is made of tradition, a unique and timeless style, skills and excellence in handcrafting and the highest quality materials.