The BHS Edit

Runway Recap

By Nick Remsen

Looks from Milan and Paris fashion week from Saint Laurent, Versace, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen, Balmain, and Balenciaga

From left to right: Fall/Winter looks from Saint Laurent, Versace, Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, Alexander McQueen, Balmain, Balenciaga

Fashion month, the twice-a-year global parade in which the world’s foremost luxury and contemporary houses showcase their latest collections, has just concluded. The season on display, Fall/Winter 2024, was full of new appointments and standout moments (a new lead at Alexander McQueen! The return of boho-chic via Chloé!), and here, we’re giving you a rundown of key takeaways from the circuit. Let’s get into it.

A look from Chloe’s fall/winter fashion show featuring a sheer maxi dress with suede thigh high boots

Chloé’s new creative director, Chemena Kamali, brings boho-chic back and everyone is here for it

There is a new designer at Chloé: Chemena Kamali. Having previously worked at the label under Claire Waight Keller, Kamali’s familiarity with contemporary Chloé’s heyday—with all of its free-spirited kick—resulted in maybe the buzziest collection of the season. Editors across the board have been praising it for bringing back boho-chic. And I am fully here for it: with all the nostalgia apparent in fashion of late, there’s something particularly resonant about the boho-chic moment of the 2000s. It was the style before the world was consumed by social media. It was sought after in a way that can’t really be described nowadays—we really cherished those paparazzi pictures of Mischa Barton, Lindsay Lohan, the Olsens, and more, in part because such images weren’t so readily available on our feeds (now, how the paparazzi treated these people is a different story). But the look holds power, and Kamali, who titled her debut collection “Intuition,” is already flexing a keen sense of command.

Balenciaga metallic iridescent blue strapless maxi dress on the runway for f/w 2024

Balenciaga amps up the wow factor for Fall/Winter 24

Balenciaga designer Demna showed a very smart collection that deep-dived into his own aesthetics—anchored in street or casual wear, but very much infused with the savoir faire and elevation of the label’s namesake, Cristóbal Balenciaga—and an exploration of luxury today. From a face shield called the “24/7 mask” to garments made of repurposed bags or lingerie to this dress featuring “hip-aulette” construction (shoulder pads sewn into the hip), the entire thing turned convention and expectation in a new direction.

Collage of looks from Alexander McQueen, Burberry, and Dolce and Gabbana from fashion week 2024

From Left to right: F/W 24 looks from Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana, and Burberry

Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen also has a new designer, after the much-celebrated Sarah Burton stepped down last year. Seán McGirr’s collection offered variety and was, as he told the press, anchored around an idea of a “compressed silhouette.” Some looks were stronger than others—you got the sense he was trying different things across the lineup, which is understandable in a freshman collection (and when considering how vast and imaginative McQueen’s oeuvre is).

Burberry is nothing if not the embodiment of Britishness. For Fall, creative director Daniel Lee gave his homeland’s aesthetic a relaxed spin. I like this knitwear in particular—the sweater is a classic staple of English wardrobes, yet here it’s given an unexpected (maybe unusual) deep-V cut.

Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana always puts on a powerhouse show. This season, they worked largely in a black and white palette, adding a film noir-esque drama to the conversation. There were lots of lingerie dresses, too. Here, supermodel Naomi Campbell shuts down the catwalk. In other Dolce & Gabbana, Miami-centric news: the label is planning a branded residence in Brickell, which will be the city’s tallest building.

Collage of looks from Versace, Gucci, and Prada F/W 24

From Left to right: F/W 24 looks from Versace, Gucci, and Prada

The ongoing collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons continues to bear fashion fruit at Prada. I love the thoughtful, quirky color-blocking of this look, especially the canary diamond-hued knit tee. Just plain chic—but far from plain.

Versace-isms (animal print, Italianate sophistication and flare) and more were on view at Donatella Versace’s Fall/Winter collection. Overall, the lineup was a bit more reserved than usual—but, this being the house that Gianni built, reserved is relative here. It’s still the label you want to wear if you want to turn heads.

Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno is off and running, with his Fall/Winter lineup veering into slightly more experimental territory than his earlier outings. I love the platform loafers. They are and will continue to be a hit. And, again, another yellow look here—feeling yellow for the season! Especially for the Magic City.

Collage of looks from Miu Miu, Chanel, and Bottega F/W 24

From Left to right: F/W 24 looks from Chanel, Miu Miu, and Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta
At Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy sought to find clarity and essence in his Fall/Winter collection—without necessarily taking a minimal or streamlined track. Case in point: his workmanship and craftsmanship are second to none and, by nature, have high visual impact. Where have you ever seen a dress like this?

This was a great Chanel collection. Virginie Viard looked to the boardwalk of Deauville, France, in the 1970s. Funny how an idea spurred from 50 years ago and across the pond would look so fitting today on Bal Harbour’s own beaches. Credit to Viard for retaining Chanel’s permanent appeal.

Miu Miu
Miu Miu’s academic vibe has morphed a little bit for Fall/Winter 2024. The Miu Miu girl is no longer a prep-schooler. She’s an art school fashionista, and she’s very cool. Also, props to stylist Lotta Volkova for setting and staging the look–it has caught on like wildfire, and it doesn’t appear to be fading.

Maxi dress looks from Saint Laurent and Balmain at Fashion week 2024

From Left to right: F/W 24 looks from Saint Laurent and Balmain

Saint Laurent
At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello dipped into the 1960s for his Fall/Winter show—the crushed green curtain staging, the scent of the perfume Opium being piped through the air, the mod sofas. The clothes were clingy and insouciant (and mostly see-through). I liked this dress the best—the ruching, the shimmer, all of it.

As Chanel’s Virginie Viard looked to seaside France, Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing looked to the countryside. Namely, his childhood home of Bordeaux. A simple picnic gingham pattern is ultra-elevated in this stunning column dress.


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