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Milan Makes Fashion Waves

Fashion News
A look from the Gucci Spring/Summer collection.

By Jessica Michault

Milan fashion week was filled with powerful moments this season and some strong trends for spring/summer 2017 took form on the catwalks of the Italian fashion capital.

The collections kicked off in style with Alessandro Michele at Gucci presenting a lineup that continued to expand on his retro fabulous aesthetic. This time Michele’s highly creative mind was sparked by all the time he has recently been spending in Hollywood going to premieres, hanging out with new friends like Jared Leto and discovering the beauty of the Hollywood cemeteries. A chance encounter with Elton John probably inspired some of the more embellished sequined designs.

For designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the only era they were interested in is the one that has yet to be. The duo caused quite a buzz when they stacked their front row with newbie millennial stars. The second generation celebrities, YouTube sensations and #influencers almost caused a riot outside the show as fans of YouTube star Cameron Dallas chanted his name. Equally as compelling were Lucky Blue and his sisters, Sylvester Stallone’s daughter Sistine, Jude Law’s son Rafferty and Pamela Anderson’s son Dylan Jagger. The young fans will certainly get a kick out of the clothing the designers presented—a carnival-inspired fun house of fashion that included dresses with ice cream cone and pizza logo prints and high heels that lit up like amusement park rides. The collection might have been about fun and games, but the house knows it’s smart business to bet on the future.

As for what the future holds in terms of sartorial trends, Milan was dominated by stripes. From Etro, Fendi and Dsquared2 to Versace, Tods and Brunello Cucinelli designers walked the straight and narrow of the vertical line. There was even a textural suggestion of the line in the pleats used at Marni and Jil Sander or the ribbed knitwear spotted on the Missoni catwalk. Women are going to be hard pressed to break out from behind these bars next season. 

The other trend that sprouted up in Milan was the choice to exaggerate the shoulders. Call it the Balenciaga effect, but a number of designers presented dresses, tops and jackets with pronounced shoulder appeal. Once again, Dsquared2 got in on this action, as did Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce and Gabbana and Gucci. Even Giorgio Armani had his shimmering floral dresses feature whorls of blooms at the shoulders.

Finally, a word about the Bottega Veneta show. This season the brand celebrated the 50th anniversary of the company and the 15th anniversary of designer Tomas Maier’s appointment to the house. For the occasion, Maier created an exceptional collection filled with evergreen designs that would look beautiful on women of any age—as the designer proved by having icon Lauren Hutton walk in his show in a fabulous update on a classic trench coat.

She was also wearing a clutch bag that was one of 15 bag designs that Maier pulled out of the archives and reissued for a new generation. Interesting fact, the bag Hutton carried was the same one she sported in the film American Gigolo 36 years ago. This was a tour de force show that was as close to perfect as you can get.


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