Bal Harbour's La Goulue
By Ellen Kanner
Afternoon sunlight plays across the crowded terrace at La Goulue like something from an Impressionist canvas. Restaurant owner Pascal Cohen flirts with a group of lovelies gathered for a birthday celebration, then stops to chat at another table of young moms and their children. The vibe is as fabulously French as ever, as are dishes like perfectly poached salmon, elegant salade falle -- haricot verts salad gilded with truffle dressing -- and the most buttery apple tart, but beneath the Gallic charm, Cohen and chef Jean-Pierre Petit are on a mission. “We want to bring back real food,” Cohen says.
When he took over Bal Harbour’s grande dame of a restaurant last year, he revamped the menu to make La Goulue more accessible to “women, kids, people who want healthy food.” No old-school dishes, no burying food under heavy sauces.
You’d think classically trained chef Jean-Pierre Petit would throw in his apron in disgust. Quite the contrary. He first learned about food from his grandmother. “Everything was organic. I grew up on a farm. Everything came from our back yard -- chicken, vegetables,” says the chef who turns out classic, flawless dishes that let the quality of the ingredients shine. “We have to go back to this philosophy.”
“Easy process, high quality, make it simple, reveal the flavor,” agrees Cohen, whose palate is so refined he can tell you if a dish was prepared this morning or yesterday. What he and Petit want to do is to educate everyone’s palate so they understand just what makes their fresh, pure dishes like simple roast chicken such a gastronomic delight. “We are crusaders,” says Cohen, only half-joking.
Born in Paris, 40-year old Cohen has been in the food industry for half his life. “Food is my blood,” he says. He has passion, he has vision. Next month, he is launching the Phyto World, a foundation guiding the world to eat and live better. Meanwhile, Cohen and Petit wage their delicious crusade at La Goulue one a dish at a time.
A meal at La Goulue educates and elevates the palate, but first and foremost, says Cohen, “it must be a pleasure.”
Viva la revolution.
